Task 2 12-10-2015 Contouring : Catwalk Vs Editorial

Today we were introduced to Sarah who is our guest lecture for this lesson. We were introduced to Makeup and Face shapes.

During this lesson we covered colour correction including conclearers, blemishes and uneven skin colour/tone

We learnt how to shape different face shapes using Highlighting and shading.

When shaping the face the aim is to balance the face looking at the shape and bone structure.

Sarah showed us both an Editorial look on the right side of Vita's face and a Catwalk finish on the left side.

Editorial

Sarah started with the right side. Sarah cleansed the skin using Kaeso cleanser. During the models cleanse it allows you to access the skin type and feel the texture. Environmental factors such as weather change and the models health effects their skin. Once the skin cleanse has been completed tone and moisturise.

First she concealer any blemishes and dark circles under the eyes. Yellow/green helps to conceal red areas of the face. Conceal using shades according to the models skin tone everyone has a different skin tones so each models skin you do will be different. Some models lash lines may appear red this can be cause by tiredness or colds. Work the color towards the lash line using a fluffy brush but be careful around the delicate eye area.

Once the concealing had been finished Sarah began the foundation color. She used the cheeks to color match and selected the correct color for Vita. Using Mac face and body which is one up from a tinted moisturiser Sarah used a fluffy brush to buff the product into the skin Sarah used circular movements to work the product into the skin she worked up towards the ears, jawline and over the eyelids, this creates a seamless look. Once she completed the foundation Sarah noticed the inner eye area needed more concealer and used peach D4 from the Derma color palette, this brightened Vita's eye area making it appear wider.

The next step was adding the contour to the face. Sarah explained we need to choose a color 3-4 shades darker than the skin and to highlight 3-4 lighter. She asked the model Vita to suck in her cheeks to give bone structural definition. Sarah told us to apply a small amount of product and build if necessary.

Highlighting an area brings it forward shading makes the area less noticeable. The areas you shade and highlight will depend on the models facial shape and structure. Sarah used all cream products and didn't powder the face.

The next stage was blush Sarah had the Ben Nye blush palette. She applied with her ring finger as it applies less pressure then she blended the product with a blusher brush.

When Sarah groomed the eye brows she when in the direction up and away from the face she used a natural shade of eye shadow to go over the brow to create more definition. A powder product creates a softer looking brow.

When creating the eye definition Sarah covered the eye area with a light shadow next she used a mid-color to work into the crease for a deeper definition she applied a third colour which was the darkest of all three. Using a dark shade Sarah lined the upper lash line and on the bottom lash line three quarters along to ensure the eye still looks open.

To finish the eye area Sarah added mascara using the Mac 214 brush. She started at the bottom lashes then the top lashes to prevent smudges on the upper lip. When using mascara always work downwards into the lashes

For the lips use a liner Sarah used Spice. Always consider health and safety spray the liner with IPA and sharpen. Choose a lipstick color close to the models natural shade and blend into the lip liner to create a natural looking lip

The look is now complete add any finishing touches where you feel is needed

Catwalk

On the left side of the face Sarah showed us a Catwalk look.

Sarah followed all the steps above with cleanse, toning, moisturing and color selection She began by adding strobe cream to the chosen foundation color.

For this look Sarah used a full coverage foundation. A catwalk makeup needs to be seen from a distance so generally has fuller coverage. The same techniques is used to buff the product into the skin. Catwalk looks are normally more matt so Sarah used the makeup forever HD translucent powder.

Using a matt bronzer Sarah built up the product again asking the model vita to suck in her cheeks to show the more defined shape, continuously working into the skin. The most important part is to always blend products. Sarah shaded around the nose area, temples but only where needed to change the facial shape

.She highlighted in a warm pink color the cheek bone area in a c shape towards the brows. Blending again and strengthen the contour if needed.

The eyebrows were completed in the same way as editorial and so was the base color of the eye.

For this look the eye makeup was more defined with a slight Smokey eye using 3 shades again and a lighter product on the round part of the eye. Blending all the products again and tidying any fall out.

Sarah followed the same mascara process as the editorial look.

For the lips she lined the lip as before but then filled in the area with the pencil adding a natural pink lip color on top. This created a well-defined facial shape with eyes that stood out Perfect for the catwalk

Below is a picture of Sarah's completed looks. The left side is the Catwalk look and the right side is the editorial look.

After the demonstration we paired up and worked on each other. We had the choice to do one of either looks or both on half of the face. I decided to do the editorial look as I didn't have much time during the lesson because of kit issues.

First I carried out a colour correction on my models face. I used green on the blemishes on the chin and for the slight redness over cheeks nose and forehead. I concealed any visible dark circles under the eye area using D3. I used a fluffy brush under the eye area creating a triangle shape using a very small amount of product and buffing into the skin.

Next I used the same brush to color correct any red areas on the face I covered a small area of the cheeks along the nose and forehead and blemishes on the chin. Try not to cover raised blemishes in a light colour as it will highlight the area and make it stand out more.

Once I was happy with my color correction I applied concealer. My model Nikita has a pink undertone and there wasn't a suitable color in my kit so I created a color using NW25 and a touch of NC15 this created a good coverage and skin match. I buffed the product into the skin using a fluffy brush.

Once I was happy with my coverage I worked back into the under eye are with D4 from the derma color this has a peach tone to help counteract the darkness still visible. I used my blusher brush to apply NW35 to contour the cheeks. I asked Nikta to suck in her cheeks so her cheek bones were more visible. I re-highlighted the area with a touch of NC15 above the contour and blended.

Next I used a pink blush to warm the cheek area and finally added some light powder to above the cheek bone and a bronzer to add a final touch of contour.

I ran out of time so couldn't complete any more of the steps. I wasn't completely happy with my final look as it was very rushed. I liked my color choice it was a good skin match but overall felt I could do with a lot more coverage and work in more product. This was more apparent once I photographed my look. To the naked eye it was well contoured and highlighted but for editorial purposes would need much more. I will work on improving this and continue to practice. The pictures look very unfinished as i only got to complete the skin no other part of the face. My main struggle is knowing how much product to apply for the purpose of the camera. I need to remember that for certain looks i need to apply the products slightly more heavy than i normally would. I was fairly happy with the contour but need to add alot more highlight to make the cheek bones pop.